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  #1  
Old 09-12-2013, 04:55 AM
abe froman's Avatar
abe froman abe froman is offline
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Default obdII temp gauge

posed this question to a few heads. kind of a new issue to them (and me). just wondering if anyone has faced / diagnosed this and point me in the right direction.


97 S14. bone stock KA. nismo rad cap. no CEL's. no coolant leaks. coolant levels full. fresh coolant.

when I drive at WOT, the temp gauge drops in tandem with my approach to the powerband. once I reach about 4500/optimum rpm, the temp gauge slowly rises back up to mid-range.

when I shift (or otherwise lift off throttle) the temp gauge slams down to C, shakes a little, and levels back up once I return to throttle.

if I drive the car in gear up to redline, then just lift and allow the car to ride the rpm range back down, the temp guage slams at C, and just stays until about 3k where it starts to slowly climb.


does this sound like a condition that could be caused by an open thermostat? like the coolant flow over the sensor changing with the rpm of the motor? but then why does it read C only on decel? I don't even know how the sensor works mechanically. the car has a thermostat, but I haven't replaced it since I've owned it. about 5yrs. i'm fairly certain I haven't touched the water pump in this car. ..so maybe it doesn't have a thermostat......? pretty damn sure it does though because I've daily'd it like 20k miles and through winter in the past.


thanks d00ds.
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  #2  
Old 09-12-2013, 06:20 AM
Vosko Vosko is offline
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

on my ka s13, the stock gauge would bounce around and move down to cold under wot. it was a combination of two things, one the sensor was plug was dirty and two the radiator was clogged with garbage
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:38 PM
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

thanks vosko. i'll pull the plug and brush it out. coolant system was just (twice) flushed so that should be very much all set.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:06 AM
shanelach shanelach is offline
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

Sounds electrical if it drops that rapidly. Even if something was plugged, it would not cause the gauge to slam down I don't think. I would clean the male and female pins at the gauge temp sensor and see if that alters anything. Maybe even replace that sensor.

Did this problem start right after the coolant flush, or after the car sat for a while?
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:27 AM
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

Quote:
Originally Posted by shanelach View Post
Sounds electrical if it drops that rapidly. Even if something was plugged, it would not cause the gauge to slam down I don't think. I would clean the male and female pins at the gauge temp sensor and see if that alters anything. Maybe even replace that sensor.

Did this problem start right after the coolant flush, or after the car sat for a while?
yeah, seems like you, vosko, and jay all deduce it's electrical due to the nature of the symptom.

honestly, I've been consumed with so many other things on the car, I haven't even touched the plug yet.
BUT, that is absolutely what I am going to do when it becomes high enough in the priority list. Clean out the sensor
and connection and see if that makes a difference.

This issue started after the car had sat for a while, BEFORE the coolant system flush.
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:22 PM
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

update/issue solution


so per usual, I did nothing about this until it became a serious problem


the KA in my truck just began rattling like a bastard. lower guides I guess. therewith, I started driving the S14
in the cold. very cold. this car hates the cold. things rattle and squeak and creak. my tranny hates me, my diff whines, etc.

the car started hating cold even more. would start car, would idle/run fine for about 2mins. then it would start to hesitate
when providing throttle, like coming off a light. after 30 secs, it would begin backfiring while at normal operating rpm.
then another 30 seconds (usually the next light I get to) the car would rough-idle and jump between 500-1100rpm,
and finally die. no CEL through two days of this issue.

start back up, car would rough idle for a few seconds and die. had to keep it at 2000rpm to keep car running at lights. still backfired while cruising.


for future info, the car has a coolant temp sensor and a coolant temp sender. (at the front of the intake mani, right next to valve cover)
sensor on left, sender on right. sensor communicates with ECU. sender is on the right, an inch away. it communicates with your gauge cluster.
they do not communicate with each other.

since my truck is not running, I took advice of jay/landers/everyone here and went after these sensors first.
sensor was like $23 and sender was $11 at autozone. replaced both, and my idling/running issues are solved (sensor)
and my gauge does not jump around at all (sender).

I most likely could've gotten away with removing these items and toothbrushing / light sanding them and reinstalling them.
they are simply a metal rod/blade stuck directly into the coolant flow.


so that's it.




anyone ever use the purge valve for the coolant system right above these two sensors? i'm used to just pulling
the rad cap, which I did, but I feel like I could get a better purge using the part that was designed for it.
is there some booby trap I don't know about with this valve? like a seal or crush washer that leaks as soon as you touch it or anything like that?
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:29 PM
shanelach shanelach is offline
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001A4EAV0

This will be your best friend. Park on an incline or jack the front up per usual for additional coolant bleeding assistance.
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  #8  
Old 12-04-2013, 09:57 AM
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

on that hood lyfe. a gatoraid bottle with the mouth wrapped in black tape and the end cut off to simulate a funnel works perfectly every time. i usually pop that lil bleeder here and there too.
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Last edited by sdaigle240; 12-04-2013 at 10:00 AM.
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Old 01-16-2014, 02:10 PM
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

Do this:
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2014, 12:23 PM
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Default Re: obdII temp gauge

I had a similar issue with my temp gauge. The oem sensor wire connector was held in place by a pin that over the years became loose, so the connector would jiggle around on the sensor and that would give me the intermittent readings.

After replacing with a new unit that also had a better design I have had no issues and no heart palpatations thinking my engine was going to die.

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