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  #21  
Old 10-02-2014, 09:15 PM
chubbs chubbs is offline
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Real Name: Wild Steve
 
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

Car came home this past saturday. I can't reiterate enough how impressed and pleased I am with the work from Travis (flatout on this forum) at Wilson Speed. Fitment is perfect and it was build the way I wanted it built. Heres a picture with the intercooler piping and downpipe mounted:



Plenty of room with this 3" downpipe:



This came in last week. AEM V2 Standalone. Big thanks to Dailydriven.us for this. Hands down best pricing on the market. Contact Sales@Dailydriven.us today, tell em wild steve sent you, or visit the www.dailydriven.us website.



The tank that came on the car was dented, picked up a used replacement tank in pretty good shape on the cheap a few weeks ago. Monday night I dropped the old beat dented tank (on the right) and swapped in the new to me tank. Let me tell you what, those damn rubber straps SUCK.


Wednesday 90% of my fittings im going to need for my fuel lines came in. I started to do the lines tonight and realized that I overlooked a few things when I ordered all these and I need about 4 more fittings. I have 30' of -08AN line that will be run from the tank, through a filter, to the rail, to an aeromotive pressure regulator, and back to the tank.
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  #22  
Old 10-11-2014, 06:33 PM
chubbs chubbs is offline
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

After 2 more orders for fittings, fuel lines are done:


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  #23  
Old 10-12-2014, 08:34 PM
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

liiiike. u go with adel clamps?
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  #24  
Old 10-12-2014, 10:25 PM
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

Engine bay looks great. I really like that plenum!
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  #25  
Old 10-13-2014, 02:15 PM
chubbs chubbs is offline
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

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Originally Posted by sdaigle240 View Post
liiiike. u go with adel clamps?
I ziptied them to the stock fuel line brackets attached to the frame. I might wire tie them up as well just for an extra piece of mind.

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Engine bay looks great. I really like that plenum!
Thanks man, I really appreciate it. It looks 1000X better after wilson speed shaved it.
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  #26  
Old 10-14-2014, 10:48 AM
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

just get some adel clamps at any autostore or homedepot. theyre amazing and cheap.

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  #27  
Old 11-04-2014, 08:46 PM
chubbs chubbs is offline
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

Spent the last few weeks tying up some loose ends. Still got a few more to go, but for the most part we're just about ready for the first attempted start.

Wilson Speed got ahold of my intake mani again to weld the bung for my IAT sensor.
Also drilled plenty of holes for me to run barbed fittings for vacuum lines as well as my AEM map sensor.


Trying to keep things clean and simple, i made a helen keller bracket to bolt my ignition coil to where the AC bracket should be.


Aside from black taylor plug wires, and a catch can, this is the final on how the bay will look. I'm very pleased with it.
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2014, 02:46 PM
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

Throwing a front strut bar on this bitch too or calling it good?

You better drive this pile over to the shop once you're finished, I wanna touch it in person...
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  #29  
Old 11-07-2014, 04:23 PM
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by sdaigle240 View Post
just get some adel clamps at any autostore or homedepot. theyre amazing and cheap.

these would be a good idea, i've seen braided lines rub into basically anything it can and cause headaches later on, i always freak out about stuff like that happening.
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  #30  
Old 12-04-2014, 06:29 PM
chubbs chubbs is offline
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Default Re: Wild Steves KA-T Coupe Build

A few weeks ago was the first attempted start of the car. Travis came over, and set up base map on the standalone. Fuel leak at the fuel pressure regulator. Luckily, he drove his 240 over, so we stole his regulator. We cranked the car over, for what seemed like forever. Pulled the plugs and only one cylinder was firing, and the other 3 plugs were soaked in fuel. Three bad injectors. Which, I questioned from the start when I was mislead as to what they were. Anyways, called up the homies at Onenine Motorworks, and had some ID1000's on the way. Might I mention the incredibly fast shipping.

Anyways:


Turns into this:


Attempted start #2 started off with 2/4 injectors leaking from the rail. I happened to have some o-rings laying around from some injectors I wasn't ever going to use. Swap those out. Perfect. No leaking fuel. Crank the car over again....for what seems like forever. Nothing.

Start looking at the values on the laptop and notice the engine load is reading 14psi.
Assuming the map sensor wiring that I did is bad. We call it a night. Frustrated.
It looked something like this:


The next day I went out, double checked everything, and swapped the 5V and the Signal wire on the MAP sensor plug to just to check the values with key on ignition incase I screwed them up by accident. Value now reads 36psi, which is what I assume a 3.5 bar map sensor maxes out at.

The next day being this past Tuesday, Travis came by with a multimeter. We tested continuity, and voltage. Continuity was good, but originally I had wired the sensor correctly, so back to swapping the pins I was. Which is really inconvenient, because AEM sucks and the pins are pull through the front, not push into. Thats irrelevant.
Back to square one, I was exceptionally frustrated. Travis had left, and I was just screwing around at this point. At some point or another, the engine load value mysteriously dropped to 0. Very, very slowly.

Travis had left now, and I was screwing around on my own. I had began to notice that as the battery volts value dropped, the engine load value increased. I quickly plugged the battery into the charger and watch the volts increase while engine load values decreased. All this tail chasing...and the fkn battery was bad.

I grabbed a battery yesterday. Ex girlfriend who works it autozone hooked it up with a duralast gold. Plugged that ish in, cranked the car over....and nothing. I had happy numbers on the AEM software as well. I was scouring the internet trying to research for my problem and see if other users had experienced this, when I made a discovery...

AEM doesn't support the OEM Nissan CAS disk [crank angle sensor] located in the distributor. I looked in the box my standalone came in and what do you know. I'm a potato.

For anybody actually interested, which is only probably Daigle, cause he's a cool nerd, heres OEM VS AEM in a picture I stole off the internet. 360/4 vs 24/1.


Travis stopped by today, we ripped apart the distributor and put it back in. Set it up, put the spark back in, and it fired within 10 or so seconds. I couldn't be happier. It obviously needs some tweaking and adjusting. Oh, and another -4 fitting because the feed line leaks. But, its a good step in a good direction.
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